Apparently, a quarter of all new cars are in silver. At least, that was the case a few years back. Wonder if it’s still true? I mention it because I’m building a few, well, 2, silver aircraft. Some people love to build silver, or Bare Metal Finish (BMF), and others hate it. It is true that BMF shows any imperfection, and so demands better building standards. Of course, this is true of any single colour finish, but BMF is the worst. I should point out that n ot all silver is BMF. Some silver aircraft were painted that colour, whilst, of course, BMF are those who were left natural, or even polished. Silver is though a strong colour, unlike black, which absorbs all colour, by remaining, in effect, soft.
Speaking of colour, I’ve been asked if I use enamel or acrylic, to which I say: yes. I suppose, for now, I use mostly enamel, but I do use acrylic, and will probably, in the future, switch to acrylic more and more. Acrylic is easier to use, washes off with water, can often be mixed with water, produces a nice finish easily, is more forgiving, and dries in minutes, unlike enamel, which takes hours. However, it’s also a weaker finish, less able to withstand knocks, and just looks thinner to me, as if something is missing. Still, it looks OK, and produces stunning model finishes. I guess I’ll switch soon! There are two main groups of acrylic. Those, such as the Games Workshop (GW) range, the Humbrol acrylic range, and some others, which are excellent for brush painting (especially the GW range, which is actually hard to spray without significant thinning). The other main group are the thinner ones, especially the Japanese ones Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo, which are both excellent for airbrushing. Between the two are the Vallejo range which are good for both. That’s not to say that the Japs can’t be used for brush painting (I have), but some are better for some jobs, than others. Still, it’s all a matter of choice.
Anyway, onto the kits. No new kits for a while, bar an original Sh’ot kit from AFV Club, which is a birthday present from mama, to match the later Sh’ot kit.
The most advanced kit is possibly the 1/48 Hobbycraft MiG-17 kit. It has some issues, but it’s been an interesting kit from a learning perspective. The fuselage didn’t join properly, in fact, it left a large lip. There was also the interesting problem of the instructions not being clear to put the forward wheelbay in before the fuselage is closed up! Also, some shaving was needed to get it to fit properly. What made it more interesting was that I had already glued the fuselage together. So, I broke the very forward part of the fuselage apart (actually, it broken open already), and squeezed the wheelbay in. Trying to sand and shave the inside of the assembled fuselage though was fun! The kit also need weights. Mine was put in the front of the fuselage, which means, even when the air splitter is put in place, they will be visible, despite also being painted black. Fun and games! So, getting the fuselage smooth meant losing detail. Anyway, the panel lines didn’t match up. The answer? To rescribe. Used some dymo tape as a guide, and gently ran a metal dental pick to scribe the line. Not a brilliant result, but reasonable, for now.
I could finish the MiG in camo finish, but I’m not happy with my skills there. Other points to consider are that the bombs have little lugs to fit into holes on the fuselage. Or, rather, would do, if there were any! Lost one of the small part, no.34, from the underside. Hobbycraft give you raised details where to place items, such as the lumps, and the bombs. One group of things not marked out are the guns. Of all the parts, it’s most crucial to get these right. I think the guns as installed, are wrong, as they rise up, not level, also, they need to be next to each other, which is difficult.
Next up is ‘The Dog’, AKA a Revell-Monogram 1/48 B-25J Mitchell Red-Bull special edition. Not much to report since last time except I popped in the top hatch. Managed, with some blu-tac on a dental tool, to get it back in place, even if slightly out of line (still looks OK though). Took it, and the MiG, to the Barnet modelling club. Amazing how many noticed the raised words saying it’s copyright 1977, under the left wing. No one noticed that some of the little rods hanging of the back of the engine nacelles are missing. Well, you try sanding, and not knocking them off!!!
Now for the rest!
Tamiya 1/72 Bell X-1, painting the canopy, which is black, whilst the fuselage is orange. Using a new technique for me: using strips of Tamiya tape, either side of the lines, then painting the line. Not bad, but some seepage.
Mach 2 1/72 B-45 Tornado, more or less given up now. The part built model I was given had errors, but, more than that, the undercarriage is weak. Truthfully, I needed to paint it better, but I’m not going to re-work it, just not worth it now. Will decal it, and give it to my Godson.
Revell (ex.Matchbox) 1/32 Sea Venom FAW.22, some small progress here. Painted the cockpit, using Humbrol enamel no.85. I must admit, I’m not happy with this colour. 85 is called Coal Black, a mid-shiny black, but I find it too shiny, almost a shiny black (Humbrol 21). Of course, maybe it needs more mixing (Humbrol 33 needs a lot of mixing, else it comes out shiny, but well mixed, is fine, in fact, more than fine, it’s a gorgeous matt black). I didn’t mean to re-paint parts of the cockpit, but then realised I missed out the rear panel! It’s not a part that effects others, which is why I didn’t put it on first time. Speaking of missing bits, there’s also making errors with the parts. Part no.87, the engine fan assembly, was put on backwards. This means, of course, closing up the fuselage, so you can’t see the engine, as it now will not fit against the intakes. To get around this, the intakes are glued as should be, but are left hanging. This means that the engine will need to be glued to the fuselage. Should be OK, but need to be careful.
Just started 2 Bilek SU-22 in 1/72, one a UM-3K, and the other an M-4. These were bagged kits, which could cause damage. The interior has been painted Xtracolor enamel X-629 Soviet Interior Blue/Green. Not sure if the colour is exactly right, but it’ll do.
PM model 1/72 DFS-194, still slowly masking the canopy! The instrument panel fits badly. Needed to dig out some of the sidewall, to get it in.
Bilek 1/72 A-6E TRAM. Apparently this kit is also released by Italeri and Revell. I can see why, it’s lovely! Very crisp, nice detailing, or so I thought… The interior was painted Humbrol enamel 140, which seems nice, with Humbrol acyrlic 33 (matt black) for the seat sides. Went on lovely! For the top of the seats, used black before, and behind, the wraps on the top. However, a couple of problems. First, the kit was bagged, which has lead to one of the fuselage parts being broken off, whilst the sides are warped. Secondly, for some daft reason, they put an injector mark on the seat cushion, and not where it can be hidden! OK, so, it took the space forced by the straps coming together, leaving a little V. However, it sill looks weird. even if it’s 1/72. Used an ancient tin of Humbrol Authentics Olive Drab for the cushion. Amazing how these old mixes lasted, but the new stuff (due to law I believe) has just isn’t as good.
The 4th bagged Bilek kit I started (or, technically, opened and put away in little takeaway boxes) is the SU-34. Again, warped fuselage sides. Fun…
Airfix 1/48 Spitfire Mk.22, and a Mosquito FB.VI. Both of these are being worked on side by side. Interior is Humbrol 78 Interior green, with Humbrol 33 matt black for the rest, aside from some Humbrol enamel 94 for the cushions. Interesting thing noted is that the Humbrol 78 changes tin to tin, so, repainted interior of both, to keep consistency. Another thing is that the Spitfire has decals for the instruments, as well as a detailed (and rather nice) instrument panel. Weird thing: the decal sheet is quite different from the panel! Not only it means it can be put over the top, but it begs the question: which is right? Decided to use the panel, but using the decal as a guide, picked out 2 parts in red. For the rest, did my usual, and used Humbrol enamel 21, shiny black, for the instruments. Now to dry brush, to make it all stand out.
Tamiya 1/48 Mustang P-51D, fuselage finished, wings added. Used Tipex to fill gaps around the scoop on the underside. Surprised it needed what it did, but finally made it look OK. One of the small rear facing scoops looks a tad rough, but it’s tiny, and should be OK. Was told at the club last night that Tipex is melted by paint. Need to coat in Klear first it seems. Scratched fuselage fixing the cockpit, filled in with Tipex, the sanded in. Looks good! Nice kit, good fit, but actually, it wasn’t as perfect as I had thought. The wheelbays are looking nice, with the tiny pistons (?) painted in silver, with the bands in black (as required). Tiny, but sets it off nicely!
Revell submarine – nothing to report
Tamiya 1/35 Scout Car. Progressing nicely. Wheel cover fairings in place, or at least, where, until the front ones fell off! Trying to squeeze them in, sitting on the suspensions, was too much. Going to sand, and reapply, but ignoring lugs. Forgot to add in a hatch, but made it in using blu-tac. Re-painting the panel at the front as it’s too white. To make it look better, re-painted roughly with Revell 371, which is called a light grey, but to me is a grimy white. Brilliant! Now for some more dust, dirt, and it will look great! Ancient dried out tin, but, if I poke the dried paint, there’s a layer of wet paint under it. Reminds me of oil bubbling up! Fantastic stuff! More external bits added in. Nice kit, but does need some work in places. Still, it was an early Tamiya moulding.
Right, enough for now. Happy modelling!